| There has always been a healthy rivalry between the craftsmen who tailor a gentleman’s suit and the shirt makers who make his shirts. Which is the more exacting skill? Which craft demands extra attention to detail? |
| For a master cutter like John Butcher at Budd there is no doubt. If Richard III was being fitted for a suit in Savile Row, they could diminish the size of his hump by ignoring his actual measurements, building up his shoulders using a series of interlinings (although in Richard’s case you might need a complete edition of The Sunday Telegraph). A shirt maker, on the other hand, has to create a garment which follows the customer’s exact measurements so that the shirt sits against the skin and follows every contour of the body. It is this difference that takes bespoke shirt making to a different level. |
| The art of tailoring a gentleman's suit and making shirts for him have always been two distinct crafts. Both require precision and attention to detail, but which of the two is considered the more exacting skill is a subject of much debate. |
| On one hand, tailoring a suit is considered an exacting craft because it involves taking precise measurements of the wearer's body and using that information to create a custom-fit garment. A tailor must also consider the style of the suit, the type of fabric being used, and the wearer's preferences in terms of fit and appearance. A suit must be comfortable and functional, while also looking sharp and professional. Tailors must have a keen eye for detail, as even the smallest mistake can throw off the overall look of the suit. |
On the other hand, shirt making is also considered an exacting skill. A shirt maker must also take precise measurements of the wearer, but the focus is more on the fit of the shirt to the body itself. uit. A shirt must fit comfortably, with enough room to move around freely, while also being snug enough to stay in place. The sleeves and collar must be the correct length and the buttons must be perfectly positioned. The shirt maker must also consider the type of fabric and the style of the shirt, as different fabrics and styles require different techniques for cutting and sewing.