The World Of Bespoke
Bespoke shirt making lies at the heart of Budd and is where we started. All of our shirts are hand-cut and hand crafted in-house, working to each customer’s unique and comprehensive set of measurements and stylistic requirements. We believe we make the best shirts in London and our continued reputation for excellence spanning over one hundred years attests to this.
"Without craftmanship, inspiration is a mere reed shaken in the wind."
Your shirt is one of the most important components of your outfit. Worn almost every day, it is a blank canvas that can set the tone for the rest of what you have on. You put deep thought into the cut and cloth of your suit. Why not afford the same attention to your shirt?
A bespoke shirt will fit wonderfully and should feel fantastic against your skin. Budd carries over 1000 shirting options from the finest mills across Europe, including Alumo, Monti, Thomas Mason and Testa, whilst also offering our own, exclusive house cloths. We work closely with our weavers, allowing us to source and select shirtings at the highest level.
Budd is one of Mayfair’s last remaining establishments to boast having its own, working cutting room on site. Our three cutters followed traditional apprenticeships into the trade and between them have almost ninety years of experience. The techniques and tools they apply to their craft today remain unchanged, whilst their experience, knowledge and fluidity continue to exceed expectations. There are no shortcuts in our bespoke process and no compromises when it comes to fit, quality and craft.
The bespoke process is meticulous and starts with you being measured by one of our cutters. Not only will he take note of your measurements, but he will also observe physical nuances of your posture. Cloth selection and style, including collar, cuff, placket and monogramming options will then also be discussed and chosen.
Your cutter will then order your cloth and draft your unique pattern, marking in any stylistic details. This will include separate collar, cuff and body patterns. Our cutters still use belly blades to cut cloth. These enhance precision. Your cut shirt it is then sent to our workshop in Andover, Hampshire, where it is skilfully sewn together by our team of experienced seamstresses.
Our Andover team work through a process of over twenty steps to make each shirt. Once they have reviewed the cut cloth and detailed order form provided by the cutter, they then set about sewing the component parts, starting with the collar, which is hand worked, trimmed and turned to ensure clean points. You will often see our seamstresses working with a pencil in hand. This helps with any further details on the order, such as a hand pleat on a dress shirt or a difference of length in a sleeve.
Our shirts are put together with hand worked sewing machines and single needle stitching, working 18 stitches to the inch (more, upon request). This ensures that the shirt has strong seams and clean lines. A minimum of 40 pieces and components make up each shirt, all sourced from within the UK and Europe.
Once your shirt has been sewn together, buttonholes are marked and cut, before buttons are sewn on. The shirt is quality controlled, before being pressed out and folded.
For first orders, a minimum order of four shirts is required. We will make just one sample shirt to begin with. Your cutter will invite you back to try the shirt and request that you see how it wears and washes a few times. The shirt will then once more be reviewed, and any adjustments made to your pattern, before proceeding with the remainder of your order.
Shirt orders usually require a turnaround time of 8-10 weeks.
Monogramming is available within our bespoke service.
Bespoke shirts commence at £275.
Meet The Cutters
A Bespoke Perspective
The Jackal visits Budd Shirtmakers on London's Piccadilly Arcade, and meets bespoke cutter Darren Tiernan to bring you a glimpse of the house's bespoke shirtmaking process.