What are you most excited about in menswear at the moment?
This season and towards the end of last year it was clear that menswear has begun to return to more sartorial and to some extent, traditional codes of dressing. There are a lot of shirts, ties and good tailoring. The difference to the usual trend for dressing more formally is that the emphasis seems to be on quality and provenance, rather than purely aesthetic. I am pleased to see a move away from the ‘athleisure’ trend.
And in the Budd shop?
On an albeit more casual note, I am very pleased with the continued success of our Winter Safari Jackets. In addition to the most recent styles in Holland and Sherry Tweed and Corduroy, we are currently making a range in Pure Cashmere. They are spectacularly versatile, and have overtaken the Blazer when it comes to pieces to throw on over a shirt.
What are you looking forward to seeing in the shop over the coming months?
In the ranges coming this year I have tried to also reflect traditional style and formality by drawing on our heritage. We are expanding our range of neckband shirts with detachable collars both starched and soft, and we have also added to the range of ‘Winchester’ style shirts with contrast white collars and cuffs which have made a resurgence. Again, the focus is on quality, and you will see Sea Island Cotton in the ranges.
What is your favourite Budd shirt and what have you got in the works for yourself? Are you an off the peg, MTM or Bespoke man?
I am fortunate enough to fit our tailored fit pattern very well without any adjustment. I am more fortunate still to have my own bespoke pattern, unfortunately however there is no going back once you have experienced just how beautifully a bespoke shirt fits and feels. It only serves to highlight what you didn’t initially note when wearing off the peg.
My favourite shirt is anything in Cashmerello because nothing is more comfortable.
In the works is a shirt in 100% Merino Wool from Reda. The cloth was kindly gifted to me by the mill, and I am looking forward to seeing how it makes up, how it wears and most importantly how it washes. We shall see how it compare to cotton and cashmere once it is ready.
How do you vary your wardrobe throughout the working week?
On Fridays I don’t usually wear a tie. Otherwise as most will know I have a mostly Navy Blue uniform. I would say I don’t care what I wear as long as it’s always the same; but it would not be true because I do care very much.
Favorite products of the past year?
The WM Brown Denim Range. Whilst we have a foot in the past, we also always like to make sure that we are evolving and pushing the brand in new directions. The reaction to this collaboration was hugely positive and wide reaching. It is always satisfying to know that you are headed in the right direction.
What is your off duty wardrobe?
Navy Cashmere Crew Necks. I can only be bothered ironing shirts for work.
Essential Budd pieces you wouldn’t be without?
In the Winter a pair of our new antique shearling gloves from our maker in Vienna.
In the Summer I have an Irish Linen Shirt in Budd Blue that I wear all the time. The linen has softened with each wash and has taken on a different quality over time.
All year round a pair of Budd Stripe Pyjamas. The combination of poplin and twill in the stripe makes them suitably hardy and also surprisingly crease resistant so I don’t have to iron them.
If you were introducing somebody to Budd, what products would you advise them to try first?
I would advise them to try our Made to Measure shirts first. For me anyway, there is something thrilling about being able to select my own customisations and to see the end result a few weeks later. As the cost of the shirt is not that much more than an off the peg it is a great way to experience the possibilities of our shirtmaking skills before going full bespoke.
What might people not know about Budd?
I wouldn’t want to put anyone off, but I’m sure most of our existing clients stay loyal to us for that very reason.
What colours and textures would you like to see making their way back into wardrobes?
Brown has a reputation for being old fashioned and has yet to see a renaissance. In my opinion it complements a wide variety of complexions and can be extremely chic in the right tones and textures.
Dress up or dress down?
Dress up and down at the same time. Experiment with ways to expand the scope of traditional black tie. Men traditionally stick to uniforms because they don’t have the time or imagination to think outside them, and because dress codes for men don’t really change there is a desire to want to look the same as everyone else. If you have the time and a little imagination don’t be afraid to experiment with different textures and colours for black tie. All in the best possible taste of course, but I do believe that style can be advised and that taste can be learned.
Discover some of Kieran's favourite products:
