How To Wear White Tie

How To Wear White Tie

If an invitation dictates White Tie as its dress code, you know there is a sense of grand occasion behind proceedings. Of all the dress codes, White Tie trumps all others and wins by a Mayfair mile in the elegance stakes. However, get the balance, fit and details wrong and you quickly stand out like a sore thumb. White Tie Ensemble Should you have a White Tie event in your diary, be sure to leave yourself plenty of time to get ready. Rushed, you will be all fingers and thumbs, and believe us, fastening dress studs and collars are not the easiest tasks first time round. Enjoy the process and approach it with calm. The adage, less haste more speed absolutely applies here; a genuine sense of ceremony, before the ceremon! A White Tie ensemble is one of the most flattering ensembles you can wear. Worn correctly, it slims and elongates the body. The key is proportion and good tailoring. We have all tried to banish the memory of President Trump’s excessively long Marcella waistcoat, ill-fitting shoulders and excessively long sleeves when he attended a State dinner at Buckingham Palace in the Summer of 2019. The tailors and makers of Mayfair and St. James talked of little else, and menswear enthusiasts across the globe wondered how anybody had let him attend in such a get-up; it was a veritable masterclass in how NOT TO wear White Tie and unflatter the form. CAN WE INSERT A PICTURE OF TRUMP IN HIS WHITE TIE HERE? MAYBE OF HIM AND QUEENIE HERSELF? Your waistcoat (or dress vest) should be white and will likely be cut from either Marcella cotton or silk. There should be no white (waistcoat) line between the front points of the tailcoat and your trousers. The rule is that the lowest tip of the tailcoat frontage should sit just below the lowest tip of the waistcoat. The dark cloth of the tailcoat creates an illusion of being slimmer, so any visible waistcoat peeping out will reduce the effect. Conversely, the highlight created by a white/ivory silk square worn in the outbreast pocket, broadens the appearance of the chest, enhancing both silhouette and appearance. Getting dressed Get Yourself Organised! There are plenty of components to White Tie, so lay everything out to ensure you have what you need. Attach your shirt collar to the back of the shirt neckband prior to slipping the shirt on. Place cufflinks through the outer holes. This is a handy piece of advice with any shirts that require links. It is easy to fish out the cufflinks and pull through just one hole, as opposed to the relentless fiddling that occurs when going through both cuffs. Start at the bottom One of the handiest tips when it comes to putting your White Tie on, is to dress from the foot up. Start with your socks, trousers and pumps or lace-ups first. Bending over to put on your shoes is a challenge when you are wearing a stiff bibbed shirt! For comfort and to feel less cumbersome, do button the "unseen" buttons that sit below the shirt bib. That way you can start to tuck the shirt in, yet avoid the discomfort of being poked and stabbed by your dress studs. Applying Dress Studs Inserting your dress shirts to your bib is probably the trickiest part of getting dressed and might take a little time, especially if your studs are screw versioins. Again, tackle these from underneath, or the bottom up. Keep your studs simple and elegant for White Tie, the discretion will speak volumes. ADD IN DRESS TUD PIC AND LINK TO DRESS STUDS PAGE Brace Yourself It is time to work-in your braces (suspenders). Even though they will remain hidden under your vest, opt for white braces, perhaps a pair of moire silk. Your braces should be comfortable to wear and will ensure that your dress trousers have an elegant line and perfect drape. Your white tie trousers should high waisted with fishtail back and obligatory double braid down the side. LINK TO DRESS BRACES. CAN WE FIND A PHOTOGRAPH OF DRESS FISH TAIL TROUSERS ANYWHERE? The Dress Vest Your waistcoat is essential to proportion and will say a great deal about the rest of your get-up. In order to have the correct length, the middle button should sit just below or in-line with the button on your waistband. Your waistcoat should also include a small loop on it, helping to anchor it to your trouser waistband and keeping everything else in place. It will prevent you looking untidy as the night draws on. Budd’s waistcoats are backless and feed through a ribbon on the yoke of our dress shirts, helping to hold the vest in place at the back neck. link TO VEST The Collar and Bow You are now ready to close the stiff, detachable collar, using a front collar stud. This can be tricky and for ease of comfort, going up a size on the detachable collar is a good idea. Finally, apply your white bow. This should be marcella or silk and match to your vest. Ensure you are wearing a self-tie version, as it will give a clean line around the collar band if exposed. Some extra pointers Don't double up. If you are wearing a pocket square, you can omit wearing a boutonniere. White tie is about simplicity of colour and line, so avoid the extra distraction. On the subject of simplicity - noticeable flamboyance makes you less well dressed; keep things subtle and the outfit will stand out better. Never veer off into coloured accessories, in the case of white tie, they make the ultimate faux-pas. White gloves may be worn with white tie and your tailcoat will host a concealed pocket in the tail flap to carry them. However, they are an extra and not a necessity. The same applies to a white silk scarf. Wear one if you wish, but it is not de-rigueur. PIC AND LINK TO DRESS SCARVES AND GLOVES One last tip Before entering your event, remove your top coat or cloak. This ensures your entrance is debonair and impactful and saves distraction. White Tie is an indulgent and refined way to dress, don’t waste it.

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