Budd's namesake founder, Harold Budd was a fascinating figure. He wasn't just a shop owner; he was a strategic survivor who defined the "Jermyn Street look" for over half a century. While history often focuses on the shop's longevity, it was many of Harold’s personal decisions during the mid-20th century that preserved the company, saving it from extinction.
The Beginning
From the very beginning, Harold had a singular vision for his company - to provide the highest quality bespoke shirts, cut and sewn by hand. He focused on the technical mastery of the cloth as opposed to emerging trends and established the shop's reputation for being "the shirtmaker's shirtmaker," attracting a clientele that valued discretion and precision over flashiness.
The Visionary at No. 4
Harold Budd opened his shirt makers shop across from our current location, at 4 Piccadilly Arcade in 1910. It was the first shop to open in the Arcade, which had been completed the previous year. The location instantly gained a reputation for its elegant parade of shops leading from Piccadilly through to Jermyn St. While many shirtmakers of the era were hidden away in upstairs offices, Harold took a ground-floor risk. He wanted to capture the "passing trade" of gentlemen moving between the prestigious clubs of Pall Mall and the luxury establishments of Piccadilly (including) the newly opened Ritz).
The "Budd Stripe" Legacy
Harold is credited with the creation of the Budd Stripe, our house cloth. The original iteratoin can be found at the shop, and is today known as the Edwardian stripe. ).
- The original stripe dates back to the 1920s and was woven in silk.
- The "Son’s Shirt" Mystery: One of the most famous artifacts in the shop today is a tiny child’s shirt and shorts set made in the original silk Budd Stripe, reportedly cut by Harold himself for one of his sons. In subsequent years, it was used alongside sets of miniature collars to showcase the company's work during trunk shows.
- The Budd stripe today: After the silk warehouses were destroyed in the Blitz, the design was revived in a fine cotton poplin and remains the shop’s best-seller today.
Crisis and Reinvention: 1941
The most defining moment for Harold Budd's business came in April 17, 1941. A 2,200lb parachute bomb hit the arcade at 3:00 AM. While his original shop at No. 4 was incinerated, Harold famously didn't hesitate. While other business owners were still assessing the damage, Harold immediately secured the leases for No. 1A and No. 3—the only two habitable units left standing in the arcade. This move was a gamble that paid off; it kept the brand alive while the rest of the arcade took until 1957 to fully rebuild. The shop re-opened its doors for business as usual and still occupies the site today!
The Shift to "Ready-to-Wear"
Before the war, Harold was an exclusively bespoke shirtmaker. However, the "commercial realities" of post-war London forced him to innovate. He was one of the first high-end London shirtmakers to introduce a high-quality "ready-to-wear" line alongside his bespoke services. This allowed the brand to survive the leaner years of the 1940s and 50s when the strict bespoke tradition was under threat.
A Cultural Footprint
Harold’s reputation for "cravats" was so strong that by 1919, he was already being name-checked in pop culture. In George Gershwin’s Broadway musical La La Lucille, the lyrics to "The Best of Everything" famously boast: "I go to Budd for my cravats, Stetson makes my hats..."
The Harold Budd Legacy
While Harold Budd laid the foundation, the shop's legacy has carried forward for decades, under the stewardship of icons such as Mr Chalmers and our very own Mr Rowley. Budd has remained a bastion of English shirtmaking. We are the chosen destination for the majority of Savile Row's bespoke tailoring houses, who regularly cite our shirts as the perfect compliment to their suits and evening wear, a favourite amongst stylists who seek a balance between classic and unique and a go-to "secret" for so many of our dedicated customers.
Today, while the shop may have modernized its digital presence, the core philosophy remains identical to Harold’s 1910 mission statement. It is one of the few places left in London where you can still find a "Tall" stiff collar or a hand-folded bow tie, served with the same expertise Harold himself would have offered and the same level of pride.
