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GLOSSARY 

The Anatomy of a  Budd Shirt

Back body – the back panel of the shirt.

Collar –Collars vary in style and cut adapting to both casual and more formal occasions. At Budd we offer a wide choice of collars within our bespoke and made to measure services. Our ready-to-wear service encompasses our own Budd collar. This is a very English/forward Collar. We also offer our semi-spread Webster Brothers collar for a small range of shirts as well as wing collars on dress shirts and detachable collars for our neck band shirts. All Budd collars are constructed with a floating canvas (interlining) and can be formed with up to ten panels depending on the amount of firmness required. All collars are turned by hand and come with removable stiffeners.

Collar Guide

Cuffs – Budd cuffs are made up of two panels and include canvas interlining for added support. Our business shirts offer a double cuff, 2 ¾” deep and should be worn with cufflinks, whilst our weekend shirts have a single button cuff.

Front bodies – the front panels of the shirt covering the chest. There are two front bodies.

Front Hem – Sometimes referred to as a “placket” the front hem is the centre front opening of the shirt aiding the wearer to put on and remove the garment. The front hem holds the buttons and button holes. A good quality front hem is formed by the raw edge of the front bodies at the centre front being folded, rather than front hems being constructed and attached separately. Budd opts for a folded front hem and can tailor the style to the customer’s needs. Such styles include a raised or flat hem. Budd Shirtmakers traditionally use Nacre Mother of Pearl Buttons on the front hem and throughout the garment.  

Gauntlet – The top and under-gauntlets are located above the cuffs and create openings at the sleeve ends for ease of wear. Budd Shirts achieve high quality detailing through the under-gauntlets being sewn into the sleeve as a separate piece to the top gauntlet. To complete the refined finish Budd Shirtmakers insert a Mother of Pearl button fastening ensuring a polished appearance.

Gusset – this is an additional piece of cloth that is stitched into the shirt joining the front and back bodies at the bottom (or “tail”) of the shirt to provide reinforcement.  Most good quality shirts include this feature. 

Hand work – our seamstresses give careful attention to every individual Budd Shirt. They make the shirts using flat sewing machines with a single needle, producing small neat stitching and strong, clean seams. All of our stitching is done with 100% cotton thread.

Matching the patterns – Stripes and checks should match up perfectly on a shirt. This detail is a mark of excellent quality and precision. Our team take this into consideration during both the cutting and making phase of the shirt.

Yoke – this is the upper back panel of the shirt covering the shoulders. Budd opts for a split yoke consisting of four panels which gives an excellent fit and is a true sign of both quality and traditional bespoke craftsmanship. Our highly established cutter John Butcher creates gathers in the shirt at the yoke seam, creating an added sophisticated appearance to Budd shirts. 

Quality control – both our cutters and seamstresses have an extraordinary eye for detail and check the quality and development of the shirt after each and every stage of the process.

Cloths

Batiste is a very lightweight and somewhat transparent fabric. It is particularly good to use when manufacturing clothing for warm climates and well suited for summer shirts. Batiste cotton is also widely used for making pyjamas.

Brushed Cotton is traditionally used for casual shirts, including many Tatersall check styles. It has a slightly napped surface and is very soft against the skin. It is particularly popular in the winter months and is most commonly used for casual shirts.

Cottons are soft to the skin, cool, absorbent and comfortable for the wearer. They are the number one choice when it comes to shirts. Below are some of the major cottons used in shirt-making:

Fancies is an overarching term for any shirts that are patterned/printed as opposed to plain.

Linen has a grainy and slightly coarse texture and consists of flax fibres. This fabric is robust yet lightweight and is more absorbent than cotton. Once the material of choice for shirt-making, linen is now traditionally used in summer apparel. Linen softens with washing and improves with age. It creates a wonderfully at ease look and whilst it does crumple, this is very acceptable and contributes to its relaxed feel. 

Marcella (sometimes referred to as “pique”) is a type of cotton used on dress shirt and waistcoats. It is a double twill and hence denser than a standard twill. It has a distinct woven pattern, almost reminiscent of honeycomb.

Oxford cloth combines dyed and un-dyed yarns. Shirts made out ofOxford cloth are durable yet soft to the touch. The fabric is often used for weekend or button cuff shirts with a button down collar and is popular with American markets.

Poplin consists of a fine warp yarn and a thick filling and is a popular choice for shirts due to its crisp, supple touch and appearance. Shirts made from poplin soften and improve with age.

Royal Oxford has a similar weave construction toOxford however it is comprised of finer yarns contributing to an overall more sophisticated aesthetic.

Sea Island cotton is the ultimate indulgence and considered the best shirting fabric due to its silky touch which can sometimes be mistaken for silk! Its weave construction consists of a high thread count, hence the luxurious feel of this material.SeaIsland is sourced primarily from the West Indies and more recentlyEgypt.    

Twill fabrics have a distinct diagonal surface pattern and weave enabling reinforced durability in addition to a dynamic appearance. 

Voile has a twisted yarn formation. It has lightweight and diaphanous qualities and is cool when used for clothing. Usually voile consists of either 100% cotton or is part cotton, combined with linen or polyester. 

Qualities/Supers

 

Much like suit cloth in bespoke tailoring, cotton shirting is also graded. The term “Super” in the context of fabrics refers to the grade/quality of a material and indicates how fine the fabric is - the higher the number the better the quality. Budd and most shirt-makers use Super 120s, Super 140s and Super 170s. Other grades are also available.   

 

Two Fold fabrics consist of two individual yarns twisted together to form one yarn and thus create high quality, durable fabric. Two fold fabrics are of superior quality to those comprising of single yarns. 

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