In the officers mess, it was required that everything conformed to the "mess kit". The correct jacket, waistcoat, bow tie and shoes had to conform to the regimental norm.

However, upstairs in the cutting room at Budd, a quiet revolution was brewing. One by one, officers enquired of our Mr Butcher would he make them a special shirt. Outwardly everything was in order but with the sleeves, yokes. front and back bodies made from oddments of cloth, the more brash the better.

Historically it has been a bespoke item, but since the pale imitations on the high street became passé, post millennium, we have kept the fancy back dress shirts as a ready to wear item, produced annually.

Traditionally an officer can only take off his jacket when the royal toast to the Queen is raised, we humbly suggest you charge some glasses before taking yours off!

Our fancy back marcella dress shirt is priced at £195 and is available exclusively at our London store.